Splendor and
Decadence

A King in Wonderland
- Imagine a panoramic view of the alps with mountaintops still
snow covered, freshly repainted generously laid out country houses
with oversize balconies and red geranium pouring over richly carved
wooden rails. Immense naive wall paintings depicting scenes from the
Catholic belief still practiced regularly by most Bavarians. Now
add to this fairy tale-like setting three luxurious castles all built
by King Ludwig the II of Bavaria and you find yourself in
wonderland. Ludwig the II left many mysteries and to this day the
legends live on about his bizarre death. He was known to detest
regular folks only to be loved even more by them. In 1860 while the
rest of the world opened its doors to democracy and modernism, the
beloved King played monarch and spent the country's fortune in
building medieval castles and a small copy of Versailles in the middle
of the Chiemsee. While the Sun King said "I am the state" Ludwig
opted for "I am the taste", a leitmotif he decided to play back
relentlessly.
Neuschwanstein
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You most likely have seen this castle before; it inspired Walt Disney
in designing fantasy world, movie makers staged historical and
crazy ("Around the World in 80 Days") scenes in this unique location
and children's books spin off their accounts on its behalf. Like an
eagle's nest it oversees the Hohenschwangau valleys to the North while
the backside is protected by steep mountain ranges. King Ludwig's
unbendable instinct had the construction site opened in 1869, an epoch
in which the European industrialization was already in full
swing. Nevertheless the King waited 16 years to move into his castle
and spend some time in his favorite place: the swan grotto. During the
tormenting construction years he spent hours watching the progress
made via telescope from the opposite hill (a great place to take a
fantastic photo). Hundreds of craftsmen from around the world executed
his wildest dreams. The ballroom, for example, is decorated in the theme
of "Parsifal", an opera composed by the much admired composer
Richard Wagner who remained an important source of inspiration
throughout his life. Today Neuschwanstein is Bavaria's most visited
historical monument; enjoy your visit and "keep on counting those
swans".To see more pictures.
Linderhof
Probably King Ludwig's preferred castle, a true rococo jewel
case. It resembles the "petit Trianon" (Versailles) and is the
only one of the three castles that was actually completed. Located
close to Neuschwanstein, the King often retired to Linderhof to
indulge in his "loneliness". Italian, French and English style gardens
extend to the front; in the middle a fountain emits a 100 foot high jet
bathing the golden statue of Flore. But it's the castle itself that
holds the boldest of Ludwig's fairy tale realizations: the
Venus grotto made entirely of cement with artificial arc lighting,
rainbows, wave machines (and heating) to recreate what is described
in Wagner's Tannhäuser. You can also find a bronze statue
of the much admired Sun King and an elevator-table which disappears
below the ground into the kitchen to be filled with succulent foods only to
reappear completely set.
To see more pictures.
Herrenchiemsee
One more jewel in Ludwig's crown of castles. Beautifully set on a
small island (with a beergarden) in the Chiemsee and what a surprise
to the locals it must have been. In the midst of pre-alpine Bavarian
countryside a French royalist Versailles style castle, incomplete but
nevertheless equipped with the famous 100 yard long hall of mirrors,
longer than the one in Versailles. It takes about 15 minutes to light
the 2200 candles. The nice part is that concerts are held at night to
bring the place alive. The king spent a fortune, 20 Mio DM at the
time, considering he spent only a week living there. Currently parts
of the castle are being renovated and plans are to refurbish all the
incredible clocks in the castles.
Enjoy more photos of the castle
and its interiors.
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